Our Laboratory Grown Diamond Story
Over the last five years, laboratory grown diamonds have gone from being a niche product that few outside the jewellery industry were aware of to a frequently encountered presence in jeweller’s shop windows. Although diamonds have been synthesized for industrial purposes since the mid twentieth century, it is only in recent years that they have been produced in a suitable quality for jewellery consistently and economically enough to make them a viable commercial product.
Laboratory grown diamonds are chemically identical to their natural counterparts and share almost exactly their physical and optical properties, including those that diamonds are particularly treasured for: their hardness, brilliance, and fire. In fine qualities they are virtually indistinguishable to natural diamonds without advanced testing equipment.
The principal difference between natural and laboratory grown diamonds is how they come into being. Natural diamonds occurred in the Earth’s mantle billions of years ago and were pushed to the surface via volcanic activity. They are mined from a variety of locations where they are close enough to be accessible in an economically viable way.
Laboratory grown diamonds are made in factories using two main methods: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). HPHT replicates the incredibly intense conditions under which diamonds form naturally, using very heavy machinery. CVD is a more technical method using lower temperatures and very low pressure.
The difficulty of distinguishing one from the other makes it increasingly important to buy significant diamonds (either natural or laboratory grown) with independent grading reports from reputable laboratories, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the International Gemological Institute (IGI), to give you confidence in the product you are purchasing. Today, diamonds with these reports typically have the report number laser inscribed to their girdle to make identification easy, and this generally makes it straightforward for a knowledgeable jeweller to spot a laboratory grown stone. We also have a machine designed to test diamonds and quickly differentiate between most natural and laboratory grown stones.
As laboratory grown diamonds have become more widely available, they have been heavily marketed, with a focus on environmental and ethical advantages. When we first began stocking laboratory grown diamonds alongside our natural collection, we conducted a great deal of research to inform our decision and found that much of the information available online is weighted towards one product or the other depending on which is being sold. We have tried to produce balanced information based on our own research and experience so that we can help our customers choose the option that is best suited to them.
Environmental Issues.
When it comes to the environment, laboratory grown diamonds are frequently marketed as being far superior to their natural counterparts.
All kinds of mining impact on the environment, removing massive quantities of earth to retrieve the desired material, leaving a scar on the landscape, and using heavy, fossil fuel driven machinery. Natural diamonds are a directly mined product, so the impact is quite visible.
However, for new mines, environmental surveys are carried out and projects are subject to conditions regarding the offsetting of environmental impact and returning the land to nature afterwards. Existing mines may predate such regulations, but some of the major diamond producers have recognised the importance of becoming involved in projects to protect wildlife and promote reforestation.
Laboratory grown diamonds are more removed from direct mining, but the factories in which they are produced are primarily located in countries with high fossil fuel usage (mainly China and India), and the machinery requires vast amounts of energy. It is also worth considering that the raw materials for both the machinery and the product itself must be mined. As more energy production shifts to greener methods, it is likely that the manufacture of laboratory grown diamonds will become more environmentally friendly. Improvements in production processes may also have an impact, so the potential for improvement is certainly present.
There are some specialist companies producing laboratory grown diamonds in very environmentally conscious ways. Because of the additional expense of the processes, these stones are more expensive than the majority of more typical laboratory-grown diamonds available.
Ethical Concerns.
When it comes to broader ethical concerns, it is fair to say that natural diamonds have a less than brilliant history. Terms such as ‘blood diamonds’ and ‘conflict diamonds’ became widely known in the late 1990s, with reference to concerns about diamonds being used to illegally fund war, particularly in Sierra Leone. The industry was disappointingly slow to respond to these problems initially, but the Kimberley Process was eventually established in the early 2000s. This is a system of self-regulation where rough diamonds are certified at source and checked as they cross borders. Although not perfect, the system has been largely successful in ensuring that rough diamonds entering the marketplace are legitimately sourced.
One problem that has become increasingly apparent is the difficulty of forming consensus to act when it is the government of a nation that is profiting from diamond production, because the system was designed to handle scenarios involving separatist groups or similar. This has become more of a focus over the last couple of years because of the situation with Russia, one of the world’s largest diamond producers.
There are also ongoing efforts to improve traceability of diamonds as they move through the supply chain from the mine to the consumer. Some companies will guarantee Canadian origin and charge a premium for such stones, but in general there is still work to be done. Buying from trusted sources subscribing to both the Kimberley Process (for rough diamonds) and the System of Warranties (for cut diamonds) is the best way to ensure that stones are from legitimate sources.
On a more positive note, the diamond industry directly supports around ten million jobs worldwide. Some of these are in areas of the industry that could shift their focus to laboratory grown stones, but many are in the initial mining and sorting stages where a move away from natural diamonds could be devastating to the local economy. Many natural diamonds are sourced from poorer countries where there are limited opportunities for alternative employment and well-managed mining can make a significant contribution; Botswana for instance, is one of the world’s largest diamond producers, diamonds accounting for around 40% of the country’s GDP, and their education, healthcare, and public transport systems are regarded as some of the best in Africa.
Laboratory grown diamonds are not associated with traditional concerns about conflict diamonds, although Russian investment in manufacturing companies has muddied the waters slightly, and some restrictions on the import of Russian diamonds include laboratory grown stones. This is an ongoing and complex situation.
Laboratory grown diamonds are produced primarily in modern, purpose-built facilities adhering to contemporary health and safety requirements, so any concerns about worker safety would be relating to the mining or recovery of raw materials.
Mining of any kind is dirty and dangerous work, and it is important to keep in mind that many resources require mining, including the precious metals used in a piece of jewellery, as well as any other gemstones or the raw materials required to make synthetic gemstones. The spotlight on diamond mining means that it is amongst the best regulated of mining industries, keeping it ahead of many others in terms of health and safety, pay, and conditions, although, as with any other industry, experience will vary.
Ethics is a complicated area, and arguments can often be made for or against either option, depending on specific scenarios and priorities. What is perhaps most important with the comparison of natural and laboratory grown diamonds is ensuring that information is well-balanced and up to date. Much of the time, when we discuss these issues with members of the public, opinions on natural diamonds in particular appear to be founded upon outdated assumptions.
Both products have something to offer the conscious consumer and understanding the ways in which they both make their way into a finished piece of jewellery can help individuals to make the right decision for them. On a broader note, many of our engagement and wedding ring designs can be offered in Fair Trade or recycled gold, enabling even more ethics-focused decisions to be made.
Value Factors.
There is a simple starting point for this discussion: laboratory grown diamonds cost less than their natural counterparts when compared on a like for like basis.
This is the factor that has developed the most in the time since we began stocking laboratory grown diamonds, with their prices falling significantly, although natural diamond prices have also fallen.
Size and quality both play key roles in determining the price of a diamond. With natural stones, larger diamonds are far rarer, especially in fine qualities, and diamond pricing reflects this increasing rarity, with significant jumps at key junctures. The situation is different with laboratory grown stones, where there is more control over size (although there are still limitations), and the more stable growing conditions allow a greater proportion of stones to grow in finer qualities. Since larger and/or finer stones are not rarer in laboratory grown diamonds, the price does not increase so dramatically.
This means that as you increase size and/or quality, the difference between the price of a natural and a laboratory grown diamond becomes more significant, because the laboratory grown stone increases less than the natural one does.
As an example, here are some sample prices for a 1.00ct round brilliant cut diamond: D colour, VS1 clarity, Excellent Cut, Polish, and Symmetry, No fluorescence.
- Natural: £10,000
- Laboratory Grown: £600
The above example is for a fine grade of stone. If we look at a more commercial grade that is still attractive, altering the colour to I and the clarity to SI2, the situation changes.
- Natural: £4,000
- Laboratory Grown: Very difficult to find! I eventually found some, but the pricing was inconsistent; the three stones I found ranged from £500 to £2800!
Value is more than just price, though. Buying the right product for you is hugely important.
For some, the romance of owning a natural product that formed by geological chance, particularly where the stone is of fine quality, is alluring enough to keep them drawn to natural diamonds. There is a traditional kudos attached to these desirable treasures.
We have found that there is no ‘typical’ consumer for laboratory grown diamonds. From young couples looking to bring aspirations and budgets together when purchasing an engagement ring, to couples who already own impressive natural diamond pieces selecting large laboratory grown diamonds for pieces of dress jewellery, there are lots of reasons to choose them.
Budget is probably the most popular reason though, especially with high precious metal prices meaning that a good quality 18ct gold ring mount can be £1,000 before a stone is even added. Laboratory grown diamonds help a budget stretch further, allowing for a larger stone or finer grade to be far more accessible.
Another aspect of value that customers often ask us about relates to the future resale value of diamond jewellery. While we would never advise purchasing a piece of diamond jewellery for investment (tax, high costs of retail and transition from new to second hand mean you would be almost certain never to get back what you paid), it is true that historically, natural diamond prices have tended to rise over time.
Over the past year, natural diamond prices have fallen, in some cases quite significantly, in part as the market adjusts to the presence of laboratory grown stones. It is therefore more important than ever to buy a piece because you love it, and not because of any perceived sense of value maintenance or ‘investment’.
Laboratory grown diamonds are a relatively new product, and a second hand market for them has yet to be established, so we don’t know how they will fare. They are already having an impact on the second hand market for natural stones, though. Since laboratory grown diamonds have become more popular, we have seen sales of second hand diamond jewellery decline. It is becoming more difficult for owners of diamond jewellery to sell, because jewellers are less inclined to add to their stock.
Conclusion.
Whatever your opinion on laboratory grown diamonds, their increasing popularity and impact on the marketplace suggests that they are here to stay. We are finding they make a brilliant addition to our collection, opening doors to larger and more sparkling looks that just aren’t an option in natural diamonds for the vast majority of consumers. By understanding the nuances in environmental and ethical discussions that are often reduced to soundbites and slogans, an informed decision can be made on what is right for you. If you have any questions or would like to know more about laboratory grown or natural diamonds, one of our gemmologists will be delighted to help.
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