Pearls are a truly classic jewellery choice, whether in a traditional strung necklace or modern pair of elegant drop earrings, but choosing which ones to buy can be a confusing experience, with prices varying widely, often with little immediately obvious reason. At PA Jewellery, we stock pearls in a broad range of styles and price ranges, but how do you narrow down the options?
Historically, pearls were sourced as naturally occurring phenomena found by diving for oysters. The process of recovery was extremely dangerous, requiring great skill and bravery on the part of the diver, and for all their work, only a small minority of oysters would repay them by containing an attractive pearl. Due to their rarity and the risks of sourcing them, pearls were the preserve of the very wealthy, and one of the most treasured of all gemstones.
Almost all pearls in the modern marketplace are cultured pearls, produced using a combination of natural processes and human intervention. Via a delicate surgical procedure, pearl farmers insert an irritant, usually a small piece of tissue taken from another oyster, into the mantle of the one they hope to grow a pearl in. Once the procedure is complete, the oyster is placed back into the water, secured to a frame, and the farmer must wait for several months (or sometimes years), to discover if a pearl has successfully grown, as the oyster deposits layers of nacre over the tissue to soothe the irritation.
Despite human involvement at the beginning, the process continues naturally and the production of a pearl, especially one that will be commercially viable, is by no means guaranteed. Most are off round, blemished, dull, or unattractive in colour, and climate changes, poor weather, or disease can easily wipe out entire productions. Pearl farming is a risky business!
The detail above describes the process of culturing pearls in a saltwater oyster, but a similar procedure is followed for producing pearls in freshwater mussels too, only these may produce multiple pearls at the same time, while an oyster can form only one. This is a significant contributing factor to the greater affordability of freshwater pearls when compared to their saltwater counterparts.
In the past, the quality of freshwater pearls was not so good as saltwater; they were not usually so smooth or bright in lustre. However, developments in production techniques have evened the playing field somewhat, and beautifully lustrous freshwater pearls are now commercially available, although saltwater pearls will still be more costly.
Your choice of pearl may come down to the size or colour you prefer. Saltwater pearls are available in a greater range of sizes, although in the most popular 5.0-8.0mm sizes, both varieties are available. These are usually seen in the traditional white to cream body colour associated with this gem, with typically yellow to pink overtones.
Over 10.0mm, freshwater pearls are rare, as are the more prevalent Akoya variety of saltwater. South Sea Pearls can form in larger sizes up to 15.0mm or occasionally more, but large, fine quality examples can be very costly. These are available in white through to pretty golden yellow hues.
Also available in large sizes, Tahitian pearls offer a distinctive range of natural darker tones, typically grey to black with a wide range of overtones, although most commonly green to purple. Similar body colours can be replicated by dyeing, but not with the same complex beauty as the naturally hued Tahitian.
Fine quality pearls may also display ‘orient’, which is the name given to a rainbow-hued iridescent effect that appears to shimmer over the pearl’s surface. The pearl must possess thick nacre layers to produce this effect, since it relies on light reflecting from the layers to create it.
A variety of factors impact on the price of a pearl. As previously discussed, all other factors being equal, a saltwater cultured pearl will cost more than a freshwater one, since production costs are higher, and supply is lower. However, beyond this, pearls have seven quality factors that will determine their price:
1. Size – Larger pearls generally cost more than smaller ones.
2. Shape – Round pearls are the most desirable and cost more than those with a very uneven shape. Attractively shaped drops, especially in matched pairs, are also valued highly.
3. Colour – This includes both the body colour and the overtone, as well as any orient. Pearl colour is complex, and everyone will have their own preference, which is very important when making your own choice! White is typically more expensive than darker cream to yellow hues. Darker grey to black Tahitians are most valued, but the overtone is very important, with blues or pink to purple tones more sought after than green.
4. Lustre – The most desirable pearls have a bright, reflective lustre with crisp images visible in the reflections. Soft, satiny lustres are also attractive, especially on larger pearls.
5. Surface Quality – Most pearls form with blemishes such as little pits or larger ridges across the surface. Small blemishes can be hidden by the careful placing of a drill hole or setting, but some remain noticeable. Pearls with less blemishes are preferred.
6. Nacre Thickness – This is directly related to the production of good lustre, although it also impacts on the durability of the pearl. Thicker nacre layers produce better lustre and improve durability, but they require the pearl to remain in the oyster for longer, increasing both the cost and risk of production.
7. Matching – This is relevant to any piece of pearl jewellery containing more than one pearl and involves all the other quality factors. It is the factor that is most influenced by human intervention. Essentially, good matching involves selecting pearls that match according to every other quality factor, being as similar as possible in shape, size, colour (including overtone), lustre, surface quality, and nacre thickness. Exceptions may be multi-hued pieces or those with deliberately mismatched baroque (very unevenly shaped) pearls.
Visit our showroom to view a wide selection of pearl jewellery in silver or gold, with designs to suit a broad range of budgets. If you can’t find what you are looking for, we can also source pieces from our network of suppliers, and our experienced jewellers and gemmologists will be happy to talk you through the options available.